Jeff Carrel, Villa des Anges Reserve Bordeaux Blend NV, France
This blend comes from a plot with old silt and siliceous clay soil, under the influence of the Mediterranean climate refreshed by sea winds. Ripe and intense grapes, Jeff Carrel has maximised the vinification and maturation to create race and depth for this wine.
As winemaker Jeff puts it; ‘Expressive, with creamy notes of black fruits such as blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry and sweet spices. Slender in the mouth, prolonged by a fine acidity, but wrapped up in a round, velvety and charming matter. Combines blackberry cream with toasted spices and vanilla. The finish is tonic, with a substance that gains in concentration and tannins. Harmonious, coherent, well balanced.’
One of those wines which make you stop in your wine-tasting tracks. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (with a cheeky splash of Syrah!) has been aged for 14 months in tanks with oak staves (!) before bottling. It's enough to make you wonder whether or not you want to buy expensive claret again!
I was introduced to Jeff by a French winemaker, whose opinion I highly valued, and what a great introduction that turned out to be. In fact, equally as good as the introduction to Clotilde Chauvet made by the same guy! This was my first real visit to Narbonne and Jeff took us to Le Petit Comptoir – a bistro with excellent food and all accompanied by his wines, of course. He also introduced me to the comic series of secret service agent San Antonio. ‘Romans Noirs’, as they say. If I’m asked, which I often am, would I like to have owned my own vineyard, my response is now firmly ‘No’. I would do what Jeff has done (except that I couldn’t) which is to work with different grape growers in different places and indulge his genius over a wide variety of grapes and styles and terroirs. No limits… If the wider Languedoc region of southern France were a country in its own right it would be my favourite wine-growing country. It has successfully managed to combine a growing level of quality regional wines conforming to the structures and confines of Appellation Contrôlée with the freedom to experiment using its vast range of grapes and soils and microclimates to produce ground-breaking new wines freed from those Appellation Contrôlée shackles. The best of both worlds. Jeff Carrel reflects this freedom with his wide range of wines and styles.
For all improvised aperitifs, grilled meats (red and white)...
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